Meeting bros and sisses in Japan

TL;DR: Move over, America. Here comes Japan!

I transfer to Japan on September 27th, arriving on the 28th because of the date line. My hostel is in central Tokyo (Shinjuku ward) and is really Japanese: It has capsule beds and a washlet (is it short for washing toilet?) that conveniently cleans your tushy. It was an unusual feeling at first, but over time I find myself using the function more and more. I briefly check out the surroundings, but soon get tired and go to bed at 7:30 p.m. I sleep like a baby. The capsule bed offers more peace than a bunk bed and feels like your own mini room.

The next few days I'll be exploring Tokyo - with 40 million people it’s the largest metropolitan region in the world! My first impressions are: Wow, there are lots and lots of people here! Wow, everything beeps and sounds here - from ATMs to traffic lights. Wow, no one makes a sound in the subway!

Later, I fancy eating ramen. The restaurants, so-called ramen shops, are small, but there’s a gazillion of them. They have a counter that fits around 10 people, with the open kitchen behind it. Usually there are no more than 2 cooks. You have to order at a vending machine, but of course the “gaijin” (foreigner) doesn’t know that and goes straight to the counter. The cook points to the door. Hm? I don't understand what he means because my untrained eye doesn't immediately recognize that the big box is a vending machine. An English-speaking Japanese lady saves me and explains the procedure to me. I'd love to chat with her afterwards, but she's on the go.

A few days later I meet with Taiki and Futo, who lived in Zurich as exchange students. Among other things, we go out for sushi. In most sushi restaurants, the sushi moves around on a conveyor belt, as can be found in Switzerland too. Not so in this sushi chain: Futo and Taiki say that there was an incident here where someone licked utensils and patted sushi on the conveyor belt. Ugh! The restaurant then quickly installed a new system. Now you order with a tablet and shortly afterwards the sushi arrives. Fun! We eat sushi until we can't anymore, but the three of us only pay 3200 yen, about 21.50 $.

Taiki and his mom Tomoko also invite me to their home in a suburb of Tokyo. After a real rush hour experience, I am pampered with a wonderful dinner of miso soup, rice and glazed sweet potatoes. Many thanks!

After nine nights I head over to Kyoto, one of the few Japanese cities that were spared during the Second World War. In addition, it was Japan's capital for almost a thousand years (simplified). Kyoto is therefore considered a center for traditional Japanese architecture. There I meet my long-time friend Reto and his girlfriend Rikako, who also happen to be traveling in Japan. Among other things, we visit the Fushimi Inari Shrine that features thousands of so-called toriis (Japanese gates made of wood or stone). There are also numerous graves and fox statues, as Inari is the goddess of rice and foxes. An instagrammable place. And when something is instagrammable, you can be sure that it’s crowded! Shops catering to the tourists give the holy place a somewhat commercial atmosphere. And Japan's flood of drinks vending machines hasn't stopped here either - between graves, candle altars and holy shrines, you can treat yourself to a Coke at any time. We spend the evening with sushi and karaoke. Karaoke is not done in an open bar here, but in a private box that you rent for a certain time. In the box, Reto performs a few of the latest pop hits. He really knows his stuff and is getting it across. A great day!

In Osaka, the next city, I meet my college friend Martin and Ella, they are also together and also traveling in Japan. Busy times! Unlike me, they both have a knack for culinary delights. “You definitely have to try the matcha latte here,” says Ella (a mixture of milk and green tea). “Okonomiyaki,” says Martin (a pancake fried at the restaurant table). Both are fine! Food plays an important role in their trip and they often google local specialties. I feel completely clueless against this combined foodieness. But it's an inspiring example of how people can complement each other when they come together. (My attention is more on architecture or urban planning. For example, I visit a normal residential area in every city to see how it is structured. Do they have parks? Residential towers or single-family houses? What condition are the bridges and sidewalks in? Trams, playgrounds? Does it seem deserted or lively?)

The most impressive thing we check out here is “Don Quijote” or Donki, a department store with an artfully trashy look. Price tags are probably made by the employees themselves. Blaring J-pop fills the room. They sell anything and everything, from plastic-cat-deco-trash to electronics to Louis Vuitton bags. But even the luxury department looks as if shelves and display cases have been carelessly stacked on top of each other. The neat thing is: There’s probably a lot of work behind this look. And it's paying off, the department stores have become real tourist magnets.

After the three cities, I feel like a bit of a change, so I head inland to Matsumoto. The region is a hiking area, also known as the “Japanese Alps”. It's the weekend of the Hamas attack, and surprisingly 8 out of 20 guests in the hostel are Israelis, all of whom are of course completely devastated and some of whom have lost friends. There is a lot of discussion. Everyone agrees that Hamas has to be fought. I am asked about the views on Israel in Switzerland. One says there is a lot of antisemitism in Europe. I answer that I can't deny that, but I don't know any antisemites personally. I also say that the settlement policy in the West Bank is absolutely wrong and that this has a negative impact on the image of Israel. But it is of course also clear that Hamas’ terrorist attack requires a response. Damn, the whole situation is just… shitty? At the same time, I'm also learning a lot about Israeli society. Did you know that Zionists and Charedim (Ultra-Orthodox jews) are two completely different groups? I didn’t.

In total I'm in Japan for four weeks and visit various places, from Hakodate in the north to Hiroshima to Fukuoka and Kagoshima in the south. After Matsumoto the journey becomes a bit lonelier for a good two weeks. Somehow the hostels are often void of people and it’s raining frequently. But ok, that’s part of it.

A final highlight is a hike up Mount Aso, the most active volcano in Japan (with Russ and Nate, who I meet at Aso Backpackers). The sun is shining bright one more time. It was like that in Dover and Laguna Beach already - apparently every country wants to leave a good last impression ;-) On October 26th I take the ferry to Busan in South Korea. Bye bye Japan!

P.S.: The Shinkansen is an incredible piece of engineering! :-D Congrats Japan, well done!